You then pay with PayPal, and they ship the next day. Once the one end of the ribbon is secure, use a toothpick to move the nut on the one free end, and center the ribbon, while sliding it back to put tension on the ribbon.

Using the cutting guides to cut your ribbon. 2 Brass nuts for the ribbon alignment jig, Wire cutters, long nose, jewelers screwdrivers and other basic tools, jewelers nut driver for the ribbon motor.

Don’t forget to deburr. I also initially started out using Brass Nuts to hold the ribbon down, and help center and put tension in the ribbon. Bring it over top of the motor and alignment jig, and slide it out over the middle.

We’ll see.

This mic is definitely sufficient for normal recording, especially if you run it through a vocal effects processor.

The ends can be a little ragged, as you will only be using them to adjust the ribbon, and they will get disposed of, once you tighten up the clamps.
And that’s what I wanted to accomplish in this Instructable. This will help you install them later. The paper will end up with a bow or curve in it. What I found to make this easy, because the screws are also magnetic, was to place the screw in the hole using a pair of hemostats. You need to hold the ruler firmly on the ribbon, to ensure no part of the ribbon shifts while you make your cut. It is very sturdy and has some weight to it.

Which is is why I make the cutting guides and Jig, so it is easier to replace a ribbon, whenever you want. I like this mic, as it has a nice big full metal framed ribbon motor element, and also has the transformer placed in a metal can, which I assume is mu-metal, and is shield for hum.

This is a little tough, as the layers are soldered in a number of places. For me, I made a little jumper, which connected to the one truss screw and then to metal arm. Just too much to do at the moment.

Again using the steel rule cork side up, line up on the guide and cut several ribbons. Nice!! Simple to use and records great sound. Use the ribbon pocket guide to 1st cut a number of pieces of 22lb copier paper. You need to hold the ruler firmly on the ribbon, to ensure no part of the ribbon shifts while you make your cut. But you also don’t want too much tension, to where you are completely stretching out the corrugations. I have recently completed an upgrade for the MXL R144 Ribbon Mic (Ultimately, I plan to build in a phantom powered preamp into this body), and will shortly be working on similar upgrades to the MXL R80 Ribbon Mic. Cut a 1 inch piece of the 1” wide 3m double sided foam tape and apply it to the bottom of the transformer in the can. You will get a little High Frequency roll off with this material, but it is still a damn site better than any stock MXL. MXL 990 Condenser Microphone with Shockmount, Cardioid, Stereo, Bidirectional, Omnidirectional, FET preamp with balanced output, Provides silky sweet high end and retains tight, solid low and midrange reproduction, Vintage body style with champagne finish, Includes custom shockmount, mic stand adapter & carrying case, 6 micron gold-sputtered, Hassle-Free Setup, Polar Patterns: cardioid, bidirectional, omnidirectional, stereo, Max SPL: 120dB (THD: 0.5% 1kHz), Audio-Technica ATR2500-USB Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone, Audio-Technica AT2020 Studio Microphone , Black, Razer Seiren Professional-Grade High-Definition Studio Sound USB Digital Microphone, Audio-Technica AT2020USB Condenser Microphone, Audio-Technica AT2020USB Plus Cardioid Condenser USB Microphone, Black, Shure MV51 Digital Large-Diaphragm Condenser Microphone + USB & Lightning Cable, Audio-Technica AT2035 Large Diaphragm Studio Condenser Microphone, Samson C01U Pro USB Studio Condenser Microphone, Samson Go Mic Portable USB Condenser Microphone, Best Laptop Speakers to Turn Mediocre Sound into Good. I was very happy with the quality of the recordings it produced. A phantom powered in line preamp is perfect, because you can plug it right into the bottom of the mic.

Look for that + mark that you made on the back of the ribbon element. I suggest that you get one of the following, a. Rick’s Ribbon Mic Preamp from www.diyribbonmic.com/parts, b. Cloudlifter CL-1 - http://cloudmicrophones.com/products/cloudlifter-cl-1/, c. Triton Audio FETHEAD - http://tritonaudio.com/index.php?sectionid=4&option=com_content&task=category&id=17&Itemid=33, i. However, I'm now using a brass tube (a piece of 1/4" brass coupler with the nut removed).

Again, I'll re-ribbon, make the ribbon floating, and install Rick's OTA transformer. Grab the body, install, and then use the bottom screw to hold everything in place. The size is good and the handle and comfort to play is good. I often find them used for less than $50 each on craigslist, and found 4 for $25 each. Gently slide the ribbon element into the bracket. You’ll use these to help guide the leads through the hole in the can shortly.
Make sure you don't have any random bits of metal or tools laying around your work area.

I suggest that you get one of the following, Rick’s Ribbon Mic Preamp from www.diyribbonmic.com/parts, Cloudlifter CL-1 - http://cloudmicrophones.com/products/cloudlifter-cl-1/, Triton Audio FETHEAD - http://tritonaudio.com/index.php?sectionid=4&option=com_content&task=category&id=17&Itemid=33. I love this mic. If you are using Rick’s foil material, you can leave it in the thin parchment paper, as it cuts OK. Then screw with a jewelers screwdriver. You will use this piece of glass to trim up the big sheet of ribbon foil to a smaller size.

Granted this isn’t perfect, as the plastic can melt when you solder to it, but I’ve been able to be quick, and it works fine.

This is a great buy for mics!

Put the cover on the other end, and install and tighten up the screw. This is important, as when you go to crimp the ribbon, this will help it stay straight, and easier to align in the motor. It sounds great. I got this kit, which was great. Now when you bring the ribbon truss to the metal plate, it will be drawn to it.

I would suggest screws going through the ribbon element bracket, with the nuts on the transformer side. Twist the transformer wires a bit as you go. The copper strips will be in the back, and the plus is top. The bottom clamps need to hold some copper tape to allow you to solder the wire in place. What I recommend is to put an inline preamp close to the ribbon mic, so it has some gain before it gets to the mixer. It is very thin, and can be difficult to work with. Take the now corrugated ribbon carrier, and pry it open with your tweezers, so the ribbon can be easily slid out. The MXL 990 remains one of the industry's most ground-breaking microphones. Then the black nut.

Basically, you just want to strip it down to where you only have the case, XLR connector and basket. You want the solder points on the truss to be facing the back, (yeah, my pictures are backwards). Clean with some alcohol (don’t use acetone, it will loosen the superglue), Put the 4 screws used to hold the ribbon element brackets in. You will essentially want to gently and carefully use one of the tweezers to float the foil out onto the parchment paper. You may need to use an Xacto to trim the outside edges for them to fit in the truss. Again, I’m relying on my friend Rick at www.diyribbonmic.com/parts for his OTA-1 transformer in this example.

I'm still working on the jig, as I really want to improve how you can manipulate the ribbon ends to align things. I will make adjustments as necessary.

I'm starting with the Triton until I can get an "in mic body" phantom powered preamp. First, everything you do from this point is slow and gentle.

Take the red and black transformer input wires, and slide them through the hole in the back of the bracket.

Insert the XLR connector back into the body, making sure you properly align the connector with the key slot and tighten.

HOWEVER, do not solder the connection wires to the motor. You’re done.

Keep a spare layer of parchment trimmed to fit on top, as you will want to put another layer on top of the foil before you cut it. A couple of things immediately struck me.

That's why it's always a good idea to cut multiple ribbons at one time. Ribbon material and OTA (or Lundahl) transformer from Rick. But before you get started you will need to hit Rick’s site at www.diyribbonmic.com/parts and buy the ribbon motor kit and his OTA transformer.

Take some acetone or alcohol and clean up the truss.


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